Star Net Round Soap Saver - Crochet Pattern

I recently decided to give an inexpensive (under $2 USD), thoughtful, zero calorie Valentine's day gift to family and friends this year in place of candy. My mother loves the fragrance free oatmeal soap from Sappo Hill. I love giving her this kind of practical gift, but it feels a bit like something is missing when I wrap up a bar of soap.

To make a fancier gift, I designed a lacy net-like soap saver with a star design using 100% cotton yarn. This soap saver is crocheted almost entirely using chain stitches and is super easy and fast to work up (it literally took me 10 minutes to make). It fits snugly on a full bar of round Sappo Hill soap.

Star Net Round Soap Saver - Crochet Pattern

Materials

• Round bar soap
  
• Sappo Hill fragrance free oatmeal
• I found this at my local WinCo store for $1.64 USD
• Any bar of round soap 2.75 inches diameter and 1 inch thick 
• Adjust gauge by using larger or smaller hooks to fit different sizes of bars soap

•  Worsted weight 100% cotton yarn
• I used Sugar N' Cream
• Ecru (an off-white yarn with tiny flecks)

•  Size 6.0mm crochet hook

Gauge

• chain 10 = 3 inches

Abbreviations

• ch = chain
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet 
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• lp(s) = loop(s)

 

Pattern

• Round 1: Magic circle, ch1, sc 5 in magic circle, sl st to first sc (5 sts) 
• Round 2: (Ch 5, sl st in next sc st to make a loop) x 4, for last loop: ch 5, sl st in the sl st from round 1 (5 loops total; each loop is 5 chains long; see photo)
• Round 3: *Sl st x 3 along first 3 chains of 1st loop to get to center point, sl st in space formed by the ch5 to make the loop (see photo), ch6, sl st in space of next loop* Repeat from * to * four more times (once for each arm of the star), when you reach where you started, join with sl st to the last sl st of round 2 (5 loops total; each lp is 6 chains long)
• Round 4: Repeat round 3
• Round 5: Repeat round 3
• Round 6: Repeat round 3

Weave in beginning strand now.

Place net around bar of soap with star from round 2 at the center of one side, pull loops up evenly around edges (see photo).

• Round 7: Sc in space of each adjacent loop to pull them together at a center point (5 sc sts), bind off leaving about 12 inches for weaving and making a hanging loop

• Finishing: Using a tapestry needle, weave in and out of outermost loop of each sc from round 7, pull tight, tie an overhand knot to secure. Weave strand up through center of star, tie to form a hanging loop (hanging loop is optional)

Tips

Note that the three slip stitches at the beginning of each round are needed to get into the correct position at the point of each "arm" of the star. Each slip stitch goes into one chain stitch. In contrast to these "positioning" slip stitches, the slip stitches that go into the space of each arm are essentially anchors for the following chain. Note that these anchor stitches do not go into any chain, but rather around the entire loop.

When I wrapped the net around the soap, I had to do some tugging and adjusting to get it to fit because it was pretty snug. Additionally, the last round of single crochet stitches is going to feel a bit tight, but if you focus on one loop at a time, it should work leaving a space in the center that you will close when weaving in the loose strand.

I included a hanging loop using the loose strand, but this is optional. I think it looks better without the loop, so if you intend to use it as a decoration that sits next to the sink in a pretty soap dish, then there's probably no need for an additional hanging loop.

I must admit I haven't used this soap saver in the shower yet. I expect the net to act a bit like a washcloth, in addition to an anti-slip grip that can be used to set the soap down without using a soap dish. I am not entirely sure how functional this will be as the bar of soap gets smaller, but at least the soap should not slide out until it's smaller than the spaces.

I think the best use of this pattern is to make soap look special as a bathroom decoration. It's also makes  perfect inexpensive, but thoughtful gift for under $2 USD. I can't wait to give one to my mom! 

This would also make a great part of a gift set that includes a bath pouf and washcloth crocheted using the same yarn.

 Are you a soap saver connoisseur? 

What features do you look for in a crochet soap saver?

Plush Cross Crochet Pattern

When my kids were baptized, I gave them personalized crosses to hang on the wall above their beds. They are wooden and quite beautiful, but a bit costly. I recently realized I could use my newfound crochet skills to make a three-dimensional plush crochet cross to hang on the wall that would be quite adorable for a baby or young child's room. So I set out to design a simple cross that is flat on the front and back and can be easily hung on a wall.

Plush Cross Crochet Pattern

Supplies

• Worsted weight yarn in two colors 
• I used Caron Simply Soft (100% acrylic) in White and Pagoda and only needed small amounts
• Hook size 3.5mm (E)
• Stuffing (I used polyester fiberfill, but there are more eco-friendly stuffing options out there...)
• Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
• Stitch markers

Gauge and dimensions

   Gauge

• 5 sc stitches = 1 inch
• 5 sc rows = 1 inch

   Final dimensions

• Arm/head length = 2 inches
• Body length = 4 inches
• Total length (height) = 7 inches
• Total width = 5 inches
• Depth = 1 inch
  

 Abbreviations

• MC: main color (white)
• CC: contrasting color (pagoda)
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• ch: chain
• st(s): stitch(es)

• sc 3 means single crochet in each of the next three stitches
• 3 sc means place 3 single crochet stitches in the next stitch  

Notes

• This cross is made of three separate pieces joined using a single crochet border, then stuffed 
• When joining to the side with the foundation chain, place hook under both the foundation chain loop and the bottom loop of the single crochet stitch below it (see photo below)

Place hook under two loops (not just the chain) when adding border to foundation chain

 

Pattern

Front and back pieces of cross (make two identical pieces)

Vertical piece

• Ch 38



Front and back pieces

• Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and to the end, ch 1, turn (37 sts)
• Row 2: sc in 1st st and to the end, ch1, turn (37 sts)
• Rows 3-5: repeat row 2
• Fasten off at end of row 5 and weave in ends

Arm of cross*

• In 11th stitch from one end of vertical piece, join a new strand of MC yarn by pulling new strand through and ch 1
• Row 1: (working over loose end), in same stitch that you joined the yarn, sc 1 and in next 4 sts, ch 1, turn (5 sts)
• Row 2: sc 5, ch 1, turn (5 sts)
• Rows 3-10: Repeat row 2
• Fasten off at end of row 10 and weave in loose ends

*Make an identical arm on opposite side
Note: when adding arm to the side with the foundation chain, pull yarn through two loops, the chain loop and bottom loop of sc (see photo above)

Center strip (joins front and back pieces)

Note: one continuous piece will go around the entire cross

• Ch 125
• Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and to the end of chain, ch 1, turn (124 sts)
• Row 2: sc in 1st st and to the end of row (124 sts)
• Row 3: repeat row 2 (124 sts)
• Fasten off and weave in one of the loose ends, but leave enough length on the other loose end for sewing the two edges of the strip together (will do this later)
• Mark the following stitches from one end: 

• 10, 15, 25, 35, 40, 50, 60, 65, 75, 97, 102 (end of strip is stitch 124)

Center strip with stitch markers separating sections that will be each segment of the finished piece. See photo below for corresponding labels on front piece of cross

 Assembly

• Line up center piece and front face of cross so that the outside of the cross is facing up,the cross face is closest to you, and the joining center strip is behind the cross face (this arrangement will ensure that the sc border faces to the front of the cross)
• Starting at the bottom inside corner of the right arm (see photo), join CC yarn through both pieces and ch 1 (Note: loose ends of front face of cross should be facing away from you)

• General instructions for joining border
• Join the two pieces together with sc evenly around in both pieces: be sure to place hook through both loops of sc sts or in loop of chain plus bottom loop of sc st for the sides with the foundation chain (see above photo)
• When adding a sc stitch to the end of a row, each row gets one sc
• Crochet over the loose end of CC yarn for several stitches when the strand is first joined
• Place 3 sc in each outside marked corner and one sc in each inside marked corner
• Place one sl st in the stitch immediately following each inside marked corner
• Specific pattern for joining border
• Beginning at the inside corner marked in the photo below (between sections A and L), sl st, sc 8, 3 sc in next st, sc 4, 3 sc in next st, sc 10, sl st, sc 8, 3 sc in next st, sc 4, 3 sc in next st, sc 10, sl st, sc 8, 3 sc in next st, sc 4, 3 sc in next st, sc 10, sl st, sc 21, 3 sc in next st, sc 4, 3 sc in next st, sc 21 (140 sts)
• Fasten off,  join to first sc by weaving under front post and weave in end along the CC border 

Segments corresponding to marked center strip (see photo above)

Cross (inside view) after joining front face to center strip and sewing ends of strip to one another

• After completely joining the center piece to the front side of the cross, use the long end of yarn that you left to sew the two ends of the strip together (white)**. Next, line up the back face of the cross with the center strip and join a new strand of CC (pagoda) on this side as described above (stitch markers are helpful to ensure placing the corners in the correct spots). I joined the second strand of CC yarn at the opposite corner (between sections I and J)  in order to minimize bulkiness from the join

• **Alternatively, after joining the center piece to one side, continue with the same strand of yarn (do not fasten off), arrange the two ends of the center piece so that you are working on the inside, sl st to join the ends (seam will be on the INSIDE), join with a sl st to the first st at the corner and sc around as above. (This just eliminates some of the loose ends that you otherwise need to weave in.)

• When about 10 stitches are left, stuff, then stitch closed; bind off at last stitch, then sew to connect to front post of 1st stitch of CC (pagoda), weave in loose end and hide end in stuffing

Opening used to stuff the cross

Tips

This is a very simple pattern, but even something this easy can pose challenges. My first tip is to make sure the two faces (front and back) are identical, including leaving the loose ends sticking out just a little from the same side after weaving them in (I recommend this to ensure the ends don't slide out and end up on the wrong side). When you assemble the front and back pieces, place them as mirror images so that the foundation chain of one is opposite of the foundation chain of the other. This just keeps everything more balanced and the loose ends will end up on the inside for both pieces.

My other tips are noted above, but just to reiterate, make sure the side that you want the pretty border to face (e.g., the front piece) is facing up and closest to you when working the border; otherwise, the top loops of the border will face towards the center strip and not be as pretty. Stitch markers are extremely helpful to make sure the corners are in the right spots and also make sure you don't have too much or too little of the center strip left over when you reach the end. I ran out of stitch markers, so I just used pieces of red yarn (see photo above). I originally marked one side, then recounted and marked the second side of the strip when I was ready to add the second contrasting color border. To be honest, the stitch markers that I used are so cheaply made that several broke in a row. This was very annoying, but for $1, maybe it's still worth it. When they don't break, they are very nice to have for a project like this. 

A final note: when I used a  contrasting border for the edging, the white poked through slightly at the corners. This was mostly a problem at the spots where there was a knot (i.e., beginning or end of a piece). To completely avoid this issue, consider making the entire cross using only one color. 

So there you have it, an adorable plush crochet cross to hang on the wall of a child's room!

I have more plans for adorning this cross, so stay tuned for a follow-up blog post. Until then, what adornments would you add?
 

Crochet Wavy Chevron Nap Time Blanket

I finally finished the first crochet project I ever started! Yes, that means it took me 15 months to crochet a toddler-sized blanket. Of course, the reason it took so long is that I was distracted by multiple other projects, some of which I've shared in this blog. The actual amount of time invested in this nap time blanket was not that much, but this project did a lot of hibernating during the past year. Without further ado, here it is.

Pattern

• Wavy Chevron Blanket (free) by Paula of CrochetHooksYou.com

Supplies

• Lion Brand Yarn (Vanna's Choice)
• Worsted weight
• Purple (6 skeins) and terracotta (6 skeins) <--(affiliate link)
• 5.5mm crochet hook

Final Measurements

• 43" wide (starting chain of 146 stitches)
• 47" long
• 1 band = 2.25" tall
• 11 purple bands total
• 10 orange bands total

How much yarn I used

One skein was enough for approximately 2 and 3/8 color bands (each band is 4 rows high). In terms of what actually went into the blanket, I used about 4.5 skeins of terracotta and  4.75 skeins of purple. If you are OK with joining multiple pieces of yarn in the middle of a color band, then five skeins of each color should be sufficient for a blanket this size. However, I'm glad I purchased six skeins of each color because when I was about to begin a new color band but I only had a little bit of yarn remaining on a given skein, then I was able to just begin with a new skein. This is why I have half a skein and several small balls of each color leftover. I'm glad I ordered six skeins because it allowed me to minimize joining small lengths of yarn to finish most of the color bands. That being said, I still used some of the smaller pieces on several bands. 

Tips

Where to buy the yarn

I absolutely love this color combination. The terracotta is a very pretty reddish-orange and it complements the purple for a 1970s, yet modern feel. This yarn is also very soft. I found it by going into Michael's and actually feeling the various yarns. I highly recommend doing this, at least for beginners before you settle on a yarn you love. I then purchased the yarn online to save money, and also to guarantee it was free of the "craft store smell" (not necessarily a bad thing, but I prefer that my yarn has no smell at all). I purchased my yarn on Joann.com, but it is also available on Amazon (see affiliate link above) for a good price (at least at the moment as I am writing this post). Just be sure to check both sites before committing and remember to use a coupon if purchasing from Joann.com.

Do you really need to roll the skeins into balls?

When I first started out, I rolled my first couple of skeins into balls (as suggested in the tips I found online from some experienced crocheters). But this took me a long time with little advantage. I loved the ease of working from a center-pull ball, but it was hardly an issue to work from the outside strand of the skein in its original configuration. To avoid tangling, I did not pull from the inside, and I did end up rolling the last little bit into a ball when it started to get messy. This usually coincided with the end of the second color band for any given skein.

 

Keeping track of where you are in the pattern

The pattern is very straightforward and easy to follow. It is written for a smaller blanket, but it was easy to adjust the number of stitches in the starting chain to modify the pattern for a larger blanket. In the beginning, I lost count a few times and had to add a few stitches in places they didn't belong in order to achieve the correct stitch count (rather than "frogging" the project to the mistake, which was sometimes a couple of rows back before I noticed it). After I got about half-way done, the pattern was so ingrained in my head that I didn't make these types of mistakes anymore, although I was also more careful about double checking the pattern as I went along at that point. The pattern includes instructions to add a stitch marker several stitches before the end of each row. I am not entirely clear what purpose this serves. I think it is meant to make sure each row ends correctly, but if you keep track as you go, then there is no need for the stitch marker.

"Crochet in the top of ch3"

What exactly does this mean? (for newbies)

The one thing that I was a little unsure of when I first started this project as a complete newbie to crochet was the meaning of "crochet in the top of ch3." Early on, I simply could not figure out how to fit my hook into the third chain of the chain three that ends a row (which is what this instruction is telling you to do), so I cheated and just put the stitch in the space made by the chain three. It worked, but wasn't technically correct. I also imagine that doing this incorrectly for an entire blanket may produce unwanted results. I later realized that I could manage to place the stitch in the correct location by making the chain three very loose at the end of each row. I also usually had to gently "scrape" each loop over the tip of my hook with my fingernail, rather than pushing it through because the tension of pushing on the spot closed it up. Here are some pictures showing where to put the hook to crochet in the top of the chain three. It is actually IN the stitch, which you will know you've done correctly if there is a single loop under your hook and two loops over your hook. (I realize experienced crocheters know this, but if you are an absolute beginner, then hopefully this helps with any confusion.)

For some perspective on the finished size, here is my toddler modeling the blanket. It is plenty big for a preschooler's nap time. I did not add a border, partly to save time, but also because I prefer the simpler look. Also, if for some reason I wanted to make the blanket longer to "grow" with my child, then that option is still open since I'd just need to add more rows (and stockpile the yarn to ensure I have enough in the correct color).

This is the largest project I've completed, to date. The pattern was easy, but actually finishing it was more challenging than I expected. How long did it take to complete your largest project?

Red Wheat and Blue Crochet Beanie and Booties

A good friend is expecting a baby in early July, so I crocheted her a patriotic gift in recognition of the nearest holiday in the United States, Independence Day. I replaced the traditional white with "wheat" colored yarn for a vintage stars and stripes feel. The adorable wooden buttons were the final touch.

Patterns

• V-Stitch Newborn Beanie by Lacy Crochet (free)
• Candy Corn Baby Shoes by Kris Moore at The Slanted Life (free)

Supplies

Yarn

• Caron simply soft (worsted weight, 100% acrylic)
• dark country blue
• harvest red
• bone (an unfortunate color name, I prefer to call it "wheat")

Hook
(Note: be sure to check your gauge and adjust hook size accordingly)

• 4.5mm 
• I used this hook size for all pieces. The suggested size for the booties was 3.75mm, but I crochet tightly and the 4.5mm hook gave me the correct length for the base of the sole (gauge based on first two rows). The suggested hook for the beanie was 4.0mm for DK weight (#3) yarn, but 4.5mm gave me the correct gauge based on the first three rows using worsted weight yarn.

Buttons

• Small wooden stars <--(affiliate link)
• 13.75 mm diameter, unfinished

 

Tips 

Buttons

My favorite parts of this beanie and booties set are the wooden star buttons. They are the perfect size, shape, and color for babies (of course, babies should not be left alone with them due to the choking hazard, but they are certainly cute for photo props). They are a natural wood color and unfinished, meaning they will probably not hold up well with repeated washings, but newborns grow so quickly that I doubt they will be washed too many times. I bought the stars in the photos on Etsy. However, the shop that sold me the stars no longer has them in stock. If you would rather not buy 200 stars from Amazon (even though it's the best deal), then Etsy is a great alternative. Try typing "wooden star buttons" and look for a shop near your home to save on shipping.

The holes in the buttons are pretty tiny. Here is the link to the method I used to thread the yarn through the holes. Briefly, I used crochet thread (regular sewing thread would also work) to make a loop through a single button hole, placed the yarn into the loop, and pulled it through. I used 20 gauge crochet thread, since I had an entire skein leftover from my plumeria flower project. I'm happy to have found a use for this thread, not only for pulling yarn through button holes, but also for newborn hat photos (it made a cameo appearance in the first photo above). 

Beanie 

finished dimensions: width = 6 inches, length = 4.75 inches
I followed the V- stitch beanie pattern as written, with the exception of using worsted weight yarn (rather than DK weight) and making stripes using three different colors (rather than using a single, solid color). The V-stitch was fun to make and made this little beanie a bit more unique than a beanie made with rows of standard double crochet stitches. I had to start over a couple of times to get the gauge right, and ended up using a 4.5mm hook rather than the 4.0mm suggested. The beanie still turned out a tiny bit smaller than it was supposed to be, but it should stretch to fit a newborn. I also like that the V-stitch provides slightly larger spaces than regular double crochet for a more lacy, summery vibe. The color I used for each row is as follows: 

• Rows 1 and 2: wheat
• Rows 3 and 4: red
• Rows 5 and 6: wheat
• Rows 7 and 8: red
• Rows 9 to 11: blue
• Row 12: wheat

I used the method at this link to change colors, but crocheted over loose ends as I went along and cut the yarn each time I changed to a new color. Unfortunately, cutting the yarn left several sets of loose ends that tended to stick out from the V-stitches (more noticeably than they would stick out from standard double crochet rows). In hindsight, I should have just left the wheat and red yarn ends intact, not crocheted over them at all (this is what was done in the color changing video tutorial), and carried them down the inside for the row repeats ("stranding"). This would eliminate several of the loose ends in the wheat and red section. Since this beanie is not reversible, it wouldn't be an issue to have some yarn strands exposed on the inside.

There is a part of the pattern that I was confused about at first. At the end of each row, the instructions call for a slip stitch into the third chain of the beginning ch 4. This essentially turns the fourth chain into the first "ch1 space," which is also the spot where the slip stitch should go at the beginning of the next row. Although the total stitch count per row is not provided, the instructions are pretty fool-proof as long as you start in this spot (located immediately next to the final slip stitch of the previous row).

Booties

finished dimensions: sole length = 3 inches

I followed the 0-3 months pattern, as written, with a slight modification to the first color change:

• Rows 1 to 3: wheat
• Row 4: red
• Rows 5 to 7: blue 
• Row 8: wheat (I used stitch option 1)

I only added one button per bootie, as opposed to the three that were suggested in the original pattern. If I had made a larger size, then three buttons might look good, but only one star button fits well on the newborn size bootie. These booties ended up a bit on the small side (a common theme for me). I think they will fit a newborn, but may require a bit of stretching. I hope they at least fit for a Fourth of July newborn photo shoot!

 I love this color combination and I'm already planning more projects. 

What other project do you think would look good in red, wheat, and blue?

Crochet Shark Booties

Shark Week on The Discovery Channel will be here soon, so I thought it would be fun to get into the spirit with these crochet shark booties! I made these in newborn size as a baby shower gift for a good friend who loves sharks. This crochet pattern is very creative and unique. The mouth and nose are so perfectly proportioned that these really look like baby great whites! I love the fact that the sharks' mouths are designed to nibble a baby's toes (although they actually nibble the baby's leg).

Pattern

• Shark Slipper Socks by Stacie Ratcliff ($5 on Etsy)
• All sizes from infant to adult are included!

Supplies

• Yarn: Caron Simply Soft, worsted weight
• soft grey heather and white
• Hook: 3.5mm
• Buttons: black shank 5/8 inch (need 4) <--(affiliate link)
• Stitch markers <--(affiliate link)

Tips

This pattern is very easy to follow. It is not crocheted in the round so it requires some assembly, but I found the assembly instructions to be straightforward. I made one tiny modification, which was crocheting only in the back loops of the stitches around the mouth while adding the teeth. This resulted in a subtle "gum line" that separates the teeth from the grey skin  (shown in closeup photo on the right). I used single crochet for the seams, but the next time I make these, I plan to sew the seam using a whip stitch because I think it will look cleaner and eliminate a bulky seam on the inside that might be uncomfortable, especially if these are made for someone who is walking (not an issue with the 0-3 months size that I made). I sewed the buttons on as securely as possible, but they were still not as snug as I'd like. I think this is due partly to the fact that the shank did not fit into the hole between the stitches, as I intended. Embroidered or safety eyes might be a nice alternative to the buttons. I contemplated adding a tail to make these anatomically correct, but decided that the absence of a tail is just enough to keep these sharks looking more like booties than wearable amigurumi. 

Will these great white shark booties be 

nibbling  your baby's toes during Shark Week?

Crochet Country Blue Booties and Beanie

My favorite color combination for babies is country blue and white (Caron Simply Soft Yarn). The blue is icy and enchanting. A small amount of white in the trim is the perfect complement to make the blue stand out. My first ever (and possibly last) commission was a newborn booties and beanie set that my mother requested for a coworker's baby shower. Because my mom requested it, I let her choose (and purchase) the booties pattern, which we found on Etsy. Window shopping on Etsy is one of my favorite pastimes, so it was pretty fun to share this activity with my mom. 

She made an excellent choice. Not only is the booties pattern adorable, but it extends above the ankle and includes a cute tie to ensure it stays on wiggly newborn feet. I paired it with my first ever beanie. Each of the patterns I used were written as sets, but I mixed and matched to obtain the beanie and booties shown here.

Pattern Links

• Baby Tam and Booties by Zeepazoo ($4 on Etsy)
• The pdf file also includes a hat pattern, which I didn't use 

• Sweet Potato Baby Hat by Erica Jackofsky (free on About.com)

Supplies

• Yarn: Caron Simply Soft
• Country blue and white

• Hook: 4.5mm 

Tips

Best Place to buy Caron Simply Soft Yarn

The cheapest I have found Caron Simply Soft Yarn is at my local JoAnn fabrics store. I either buy it when it is on sale or when I have a great coupon. I am not affiliated with JoAnn, but wanted to share that I think it is worth joining their mailing list because they regularly send out 40% off coupons (for one regularly-priced item). I would not buy a skein of Caron Simply Soft Yarn for more than $3. For bigger projects, I prefer to purchase this yarn online simply because it doesn't have that "craft store smell" (incidentally, the Caron Simply Soft Yarn at our local store is located right next to the sachets). 

Booties 

(finished size: 3 inches long sole)

I only made one minor modification to the booties. I used standard single crochet stitches for the trim rather than what was suggested in the pattern. Also, the suggested hook size is 4.0mm, but I moved up to 4.5mm because I tend to crochet tightly. In fact, my first attempt at making these booties turned out an inch shorter than it was supposed to be! Not crocheting too tightly (especially noticeable on booties) has been my greatest challenge thus far. 

Baby Hat 

(finished size: 7 inches wide at brim)

I did not modify the hat pattern, other than selecting my own color combination. There is one stitch in the pattern, a puff stitch, that was new to me and which I found a bit challenging simply because there are so many loops to go through at one time. I found that it helped to make sure I was crocheting loosely and keep my hook straight so I didn't catch the sides when pulling it through. It also helped to carefully pull my hook through one loop at a time if I was having trouble with a particular stitch. For a link to a tutorial on changing colors in the round, see my lacy crochet summer baby gift set post (scroll to the bottom).

Overall, this was a very quick and easy gift for a baby shower. Both patterns are written well and include gauge and stitch counts. I think this set is perfect for a baby boy, but the country blue certainly works for baby girls, too. I crocheted this gift set for a December baby last winter, but I think the color combination would also work great for a summer baby (think nautical).

What season do you think the country blue and white color combination evokes?

Crochet Boy Booties - Loafers with a Strap

I taught myself to crochet in order to make cute items for my kids. Because I am sentimental, I wanted my first ever project to be something I made for one of my own children. Well, that ship sailed when I sent off the bulky newborn set to my good friend. However, my second project was booties for my young son. Ideally, I would have learned to crochet before he was born so that I could have dressed him properly for a newborn photo shoot, but I also missed that boat. My son was wearing size 6-12 months by the time I crocheted his first booties.

I wanted his booties to be adorable, but not too frilly. I had a hard time finding cute booties patterns for boys. Yes, there are many unisex patterns out there, but many of them tend to be a bit generic. Where could I find something as cute as Mary Janes, but intended for boys? The answer for me was...Etsy (again). I just love the crochet patterns featured there. The pattern I selected was from The Lovely Crow, which is also the source of the booties I blogged about last week. Actually, I had bought these two patterns at the same time so that I could get a two-for-one deal (two patterns for $10.75 rather than $5.95 each, for a savings of $1.15).

Pattern Link:

• I chose The Lovely Crow's Little Mister Loafers for my son's first booties (note: the original pattern does not include the strap shown in these pictures)

I still swoon every time I see a picture of these booties. The pattern was very easy to follow. I finished the booties very quickly. I opted to keep them simple, so I left off the buttons and optional trim on the toes. Even though I did not add the buttons as embellishments, I did add a strap and button (see below). A bonus of this pattern is that it comes with a video tutorial that includes a very clever and fast technique for sewing on buttons.

Supplies:

• Worsted weight (#4) yarn: I used Caron Simply Soft, as suggested in the pattern. The colors in my photos are "bone" and "chocolate"
• Hook size 3.5mm (aka "E")
• Tapestry needle
• Two buttons (I used coconut)
• Stitch marker for keeping track of the first stitch of each row (optional) 

Tips:

These booties are loafers, which I call the male equivalent of Mary Janes. They are designed such that a relatively large part of the top of the foot is exposed. Although this is extremely cute (especially on chubby feet), there is a drawback: they fall off pretty easily. I would not call this a design flaw, per se; it's just what happens when you put a loafer on a baby. I made an attempt to correct this by adding a strap. The strap was not part of the original pattern. 

Pattern modification - adding a strap:

If you already have a booties pattern with a strap that you like, then that would probably work fine for this. I wanted the strap to be very simple, so I made a chain and used slip stitches to add a button loop.

Simple chain strap (for a chubby ankle in size 6-12 months):

Chain 18 (or to desired length), slip stitch in 5th chain from hook and continue down to the first chain, fasten off and secure loose ends to the inside body of the bootie.

Add a button on the other side of the bootie using the technique described in the tutorial that goes with the bootie pattern.

I must say that even with the strap (which helped a lot), these booties still tended to slide off of the heel. I suspect this happens with many booties that do not cover the ankles and include an ankle tie. I still love them, especially for photo shoot purposes. The next time I make these, I may add a much thicker strap. Incidentally, The Lovely Crow offers a pattern, Little Prince Loafers, that looks almost identical to these, but includes a wide strap. They are also very cute baby boy booties, and probably stay on busy babies a bit better (yeah, I like alliteration).

When choosing crochet booties patterns, do you rank
form (i.e., cuteness for photo shoots) or function higher?